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Bolivian Cordillera Real - Pequeno Alpamayo, 5329m and Huayna Potosi, 6088m

This trip is a superb introduction to mountaineering in Latin America. We tackle two peaks that are both respectable and popular mountaineering objectives, plus the option to climb a harder peak called Illimani for an additional week in Bolivia. It is quite a strenuous trip demanding fitness and experience camping outdoors, however we will be using mules and some base camp facilities along the way.

Overview

This trip is a superb introduction to mountaineering in Latin America. We tackle two peaks that are both respectable and popular mountaineering objectives, plus the option to climb a harder peak called Illimani for an additional week in Bolivia. It is quite a strenuous trip demanding fitness and experience camping outdoors, however we will be using mules and some base camp facilities along the way. There will always be one guide to three clients when climbing on the rope.

The climbing averages PD+/AD (Scottish II) and does require confidence, experience on snow and ice and knowledgable use of crampons and ice axe. It is also required that members have experience of roped travel on glaciated terrain and steep ground. We will be asking applicants to send us some details of their climbing experience before acceptance onto this trip.

We fly in to La Paz in Bolivia at 4000m but we do recommend that if you have time you may wish to arrive even earlier to get used to the altitude. It is definitely a very high starting point for a mountain trip.

Start point La Paz (3627m) surrounded by glaciated peaks and rolling hills. Minimum two days acclimatising and visiting Lake Titicaca and the reed islands.

Pequeno Alpamayo (17,482 feet/ 5329m) climb is technical yet reasonable (AD). Ideal place to increase your mountaineering skills. 5 days practicing glacier and climbing skills, acclimatizing, climbing sub-peaks, and finally making our summit bid. The summit day consists of a moderate glacier, followed by two pitches of fourth class rock, and then steep ice or neve on a knife-edged ridge. After our team makes its summit bid, we will trek onto the next peak.

Huayna Potosi (19,975 feet 6088m, AD) is a short drive from La Paz to the base camp. Spend a day practicing steeper ice climbing skills on the glacier’s edge. Summit day route is comprised of steep glacier travel and a final airy ridge to the summit. A summit of Huayna is excellent preparation for longer routes on the big mountains of the world.

Optional third peak of Illimani (21,125 feet/6,439 meters), tallest in the Cordillera Real and graded a PD climb. After a beautiful approach through Bolivian farmland and small indigenous towns, arrive at base camp and move to high camp known as Nido de Condores at 18,372 feet (5,600 meters). Summit day takes us across an exposed ridge and then onto broad snow slopes, around crevasse fields, and eventually onto the final, classic, knife-edged summit ridge which can involve 55° ice climbing at an altitude of nearly 6,000m.

What Our Adventurers Think:

Brilliant trip, really sound guides, great food – got all 3 peaks done as well as 3 extra – got a day mountain biking on death road fitted in on rest day just to add to adrenaline rush! Beautiful country and really lovely people – one of the best trips so far; despite some of the peaks being at the more technical end of things I never felt under any pressure due to the guides being so competent and relaxed. Well done to Jon, Jose, Andreas and all the support team, a cracking trip all round!

Anonymous Bolivia

Huayna Potosi and Pequeno Alpamayo itinerary

The main trip is 15 days in-country. Add a day at either end for flights which will make it 17 days in total. However, feel free to arrive a day or so early or leave a day or so later.

If you would like to climb Illimani as well then the trip is 21 days in country, or 23 days with flight time.

Flights

The airport in La Paz is called El Alto International Airport. Its code is LPB(IATA) or SLLP(ICAO) It is located 8 mi (13 km) south west of La Paz city. Common routes from the UK are via European and then South American hubs, such as Amsterdam & Lima, Madrid & Santiago, Madrid & Bogota etc

Day
Summary
1
Arrive La Paz, Explore city, relax, acclimatise
Elevation:
(4000m)-3650m

Arrive in La Paz at 4000m, transfer to hotel in the heart of the city at 3,650m, it is important to take it gently for the day. There is the chance to visit the attractions of the city, including the notorious Witches Market, colonial museums and perhaps even the coca museum.

2
Visit Tihuanaco, travel to Copacabana
Elevation:
3800m

Continuing our acclimatisation, we drive out into the altiplano to visit the ancient site of Tihuanaco, an extremely significant pre-Inca civilisation. Continue to Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titicaca (3,800m).

3
Visit Island of the Sun, lake Titicaca
Elevation:
3800m

Motor boat onto the Island of the Sun for a three hour trek across the island, enjoying the panorama of the Cordillera Real and Cordillera Apolobamba ranges in the distance.

4
Drive out to Cordillera Real, Trek to Ajuani camp
Elevation:
4300m

2-3 hour drive from Lake Titicaca to Kâotia, where our mules will be waiting. Starting at 4200m, we follow the foothills of the Cordillera Real until we reach the valley of Ajuani. Camp at 4300m

5
Trek via 4800m pass to Juri Khota Lake camp
Elevation:
(4800m)-4300m

Cross two passes of around 4800m before descending into the Juri Khota valley, and camp on the shores of the Lake with the same name (4300m)

6
Trek via Austrian Pass, up to Pico Austria, and down to Condoriri Valley camp
Elevation:
(4900m)-4600m

Cross the Austria pass (5100m) passing magnificent hanging glaciers and glacial lakes before descending into Condoriri valley (4600m) after climbing Pico Austria at 5250m.

7
Glacier skills training close to Condoriri Valley camp
Elevation:
4600m

A skills practise day today at the base of the glacier.

8
Summit day Pequeno Alpamayo
Elevation:
5350m

Summit attempt of Pequeno Alpamayo (5,350m). Departing around 4am, trek to the glacier, first few hours, the gradient remains relatively consistent at around 30 degrees until we reach the saddle of the Tarija peak at 5,300m which is an ideal vantage point to see the final route to the summit of Pequeno Alpamayo (about 1 hour further). The final section is a little steeper (up to 45 degrees) until we reach the summit. Descend the same way.

9
Spare day
Elevation:
4500m

Spare day. Or break camp and continue our trek along the range, and make our way to the base of Maria Lloco (4,500m). Camp

10
Trek to Maria Lloco camp
Elevation:
4700m

Trek to Maria Lloco camp or the Huayna base camp at 4,700m. Camp.

11
Trek to Huayna Base camp

Rest day

12
Climb to Huayna High camp
Elevation:
5150m
A short trek today to the high camp for acclimatisation and training (5,150m) at the edge of the glacier. Or move to high camp for sleeping.
13
Summit day Huayna Potosi
Elevation:
6088m

Early start (around 1am) to aim to reach the summit for sunrise. We step onto the glacier almost immediately, with the majority of the route being a glacial walk, with a couple of small crevasses to negotiate. Or camping at high camp for summit next day

14
Spare day
Elevation:
3650m

Summit day or spare day or return to La Paz

15
La Paz, depart for home or stay for next climb
Elevation:
3650m

Return to La Paz, depart home or stay

16
Illimani group drive to Pinaya and walk to Base Camp of Illimani at 4400m
17
Move to high camp Nido de Condores, 5400m
18
Summit day, 6439m and returning to base camp
19
Spare day
20
Returning to base camp and La Paz
21
La Paz, depart for home or stay

Ready for an Adventure of a Lifetime?

Choose a scheduled date or contact us to set up private dates or a bespoke itinerary. The minimum deposit is £100.00 and the balance is due four weeks before travel.

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Private Itineraries




    Huayna Potosi and Pequeno Alpamayo cost £2695.00

    (with the Illimani option – £3465.00)

    INCLUDES

    • Professional Bolivian or UK guides (English speaking), ratio up to 1:3 maximum
    • Meals during the trek and climb
    • Mules and mule drivers (max weight 25kgs/person)
    • Airport transfers in La Paz
    • Internal transport to the mountains
    • Boat tour to Island of the Sun/Titicaca and/or acclimatisation hikes outside the city
    • National Park Fees
    • Accommodation in city hotel prior to and after the climb
    • Sleeping tents and group equipment

    EXCLUDES

    • International flight to La Paz
    • Personal costs such as meals and drinks in La Paz, city sightseeing tours
    • Travel/climbing insurance
    • Bolivian visa if necessary (free for UK citizens)
    • Tips

    Payments

    A deposit of £100 is required on booking to secure your place and we ask that the remaining balance (trip price minus the deposit) is paid in full 6 weeks prior to your departure. It is important that you take out adequate personal insurance for this trip as early as possible.

    Insurance

    You will need to take out personal travel insurance for the trip. You need to make sure it covers all the trip locations and activities and also cancellation. Your insurance will need to cover climbing to 6088m and emergency evacuation from the Cordillera Real in Bolivia. It is worth notifying the insurer of the names of the peaks (Huayna Potosi and Pequeno Alpamayo) and that you will be climbing on snow and ice using ropes.

    You need to buy cover as soon as you book your place on the trip and buy your flights so that if something happens before the trip that means you can’t travel, you will be able to claim the flights and trip cost back.

    A few providers that are worth checking are; Campbell Irvinethe BMCSnowcardInsure and Go

    Huayna Potosi and Pequeno Alpamayo kit list

    • BAGS – Large rucksack + daypack ~45L, dry bags
    • SHELL – Top and bottoms
    • INSULATION – fleece layers, gloves, mitts, light down top, warm hat, buff, base layers
    • TREKKING CLOTHES – shorts, shirts, trousers, sunhat
    • FEET – Trekking boots, mountaineering double-boots or hybrids, sandals, trekking and climbing socks, gaiters
    • SLEEPING – Warm sleeping bag rated to -15C and sleeping mat
    • EATING/DRINKING – Water bottles, snacks, insulated cup, bowl and fork/spoon/knife
    • WASHING & MEDICAL kit plus suncream and UV lip salve
    • CLIMBING – Crampons, ice axe, harness, at least one sling, 2 karabiners (locking), 2 karabiners (snap), prussik, helmet
    • EXTRA – Walking poles, sunglasses/goggles, camera/phone/charger, headtorch, repair kit, personal kit

    Adventure Alternative will supply the climbing ropes, tents and cooking equipment.

    A lot of this equipment can be rented in La Paz or also from our rental outfit in the UK, however we would assume that people on this type of expedition will already have this equipment and clothing and be self-sufficient and experienced in its use. For more information about packing, see our detailed kit list.

    Maps and routes

    Bolivia is landlocked and almost halfway down South America on the western side of the continent. The main airport to fly to for mountain climbing is La Paz. From this high city the range of Cordillera Real run in a line to the north east of the city. On this map Illimani is slightly south east of the city.

    Pequeno Alpamayo route map

    Huayna Potosi route map

    Illimani route map

     

    Frequently Asked Questions

    How fit do I have to be to climb Huayna Potosi and Pequeno Alpamayo?
    Why climb with us in Bolivia?

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